marleyonthewall

Author: phoeberg

  • Crossing into Northumberland: Emperor Marley Finally Meets His Wall

    Leg 7: Tyne Riverside Country Park to Heddon-on-the-Wall

    (Marley at Hadrian’s Wall at Heddon-on-the-Wall, Northumberland)

    The Dawn Walks Are Over

    Saturday 12 September 2026. The alarm goes off… and it’s not dawn.

    We officially completed our dawn walks last time around, so the start of this blog finally has a different pattern. We also took a short break from the Wall. In the meantime, we spent some time in the south and moved house from our beloved Whitley Chapel after nine months (short but oh so sweet) in Hexhamshire, Northumberland, to northern Cumbria, practically Scotland. Cumbria, practically Scotland. I’m not exaggerating either; we’re only 15 miles from Gretna Green (a shame we’re already married).

    Cumbria was never part of the plan, but it does now mean we’ve lived in both of Hadrian’s Wall’s counties, if you discount the small section in Tyne and Wear.

    After a few weeks off, the Saturday forecast promised fair weather and sunshine. We anticipated that Tyne Riverside Country Park would be busy and bustling compared with the dawn tranquillity we experienced on the previous leg.

    It was also a much longer journey to get there. Having moved from east to west, ironically following much of Hadrian’s Wall’s trajectory, the drive back along the A69 was now twice as long. Our new home would have been perfectly positioned for the western sections of the trail if we’d already reached them, but c’est la vie and all that.

    Marley Takes To His Chariot

    As predicted, Tyne Riverside Country Park was thriving. We needed to walk through the park for a few minutes before picking up the path proper.

    As soon as we parked up, an electric scooter whizzed past. Footballs flew across open spaces. Cyclists, joggers, dogs and families filled the park. It was a lovely atmosphere, but not a particularly Marley-friendly one.

    We therefore decided that Marley would begin the walk in his chariot aka dog buggy while we navigated the busy park, only earning his release once we reached the Hadrian’s Wall Path.

    It proved to be a wise decision and, after around 10 to 15 minutes, we had a couple of options:

    1. Take the original Hadrian’s Wall Path (not recommended in bad weather or winter).
    2. Take the resurfaced, accessible (and cycle friendly) alternative.

    As it was a sunny September day, we naturally chose the path less travelled.

    Taking the Path Less Travelled

    Marley was released from his chariot and was delighted to find himself heading off the beaten track into woodland.

    I pushed the empty buggy while Danny walked Marley on his lead (boot on paw owing to an injury). Despite that, he bounced along enthusiastically, thoroughly enjoying all the new scents.

    Taking the path less travelled may have seemed like a sensible choice for those walking with a reactive dog, but we soon encountered a problem. The route became narrow, overgrown and increasingly difficult to navigate. It wasn’t particularly buggy-friendly with or without a canine passenger.

    The path grew steeper and steeper, with a noticeable drop on one side. I became slightly concerned about losing my footing whilst trying to manoeuvre the buggy wheels over tree roots, rocks and encroaching vegetation.

    Thankfully, Danny offered to swap roles and took over buggy duty. She managed it much better than I did, although it was still no mean feat. I took charge of Marley instead, keeping a close eye on him as we went. His excitement, combined with the steep and narrow path, felt like it could easily end with at least one of us disappearing over the edge. Literally.

    Eventually, after what felt like forever, the narrow woodland path finally opened out into a wide cornfield.

    Marley was delighted (as was Danny).

    A Pub Crawl or a Climb?

    As soon as we emerged from the trees, Marley switched effortlessly into modelling mode. I took back control of the buggy while Danny resumed her duties as Marley’s escort.

    Despite the busy atmosphere we had left behind in the park, it was a surprisingly long time before we encountered another person. The contrast was stark.

    A little further on, we rejoined the accessible Hadrian’s Wall Path. We paused to admire the hills ahead, with Heddon-on-the-Wall high above us. We squinted towards the horizon, wondering whether we could spot either of the village pubs.

    There was still some distance to cover but, having completed every previous leg at dawn, we were determined to take advantage of establishments actually being open and reward ourselves with a proper pub lunch.

    Before that, though, there was a hill.

    Not just any hill.

    A very long hill.

    A very steep hill.

    Even pushing the empty buggy felt like an Olympic workout, while Marley enthusiastically attempted to tow Danny to the summit. Muscles aching and feeling increasingly hot, I suddenly found myself envying Danny’s decision to wear shorts.

    The path seemed endless but I kept smiling.

    Eventually, we reached the outskirts of Heddon-on-the-Wall, relieved that our perseverance had paid off.

    We had anticipated challenges on this leg, but not physical ones. This was Leg 7 and, without question, the most physically demanding section we’d tackled so far, despite being only three miles or so in length.

    Crossing into Northumberland

    Not to be defeated, we passed a house proudly flying the red and yellow Northumberland county flag and let out a cheer.

    We’d finally crossed from Tyne and Wear into our beloved Northumberland.

    After seven legs, it genuinely felt as though we had arrived in Hadrian’s Wall country proper.

    Soon afterwards, the path finally levelled off and we were thrilled to reach the Heddon-on-the-Wall sign.

    Mission accomplished.

    Finally, a pub

    Our next destination was The Swan on Towne Gate, hostelry number 114 for Marley (his pub count has since reached 121).

    The pub was quiet and we decided to make the most of having the garden to ourselves. From our elevated position there were sweeping views across the surrounding countryside and, after the exertions of the climb, a welcome breeze.

    Wrapped in his blanket and looking perfectly content with life, Marley settled down while we enjoyed a long and leisurely lunch.

    It was exactly the kind of reward that Hadrian’s Wall walking should involve.

    One of the unexpected bonuses of not walking at dawn was logistics. On previous legs we’d always had to complete the route in both directions in order to get back to the car. This time, there was a far simpler solution.

    A taxi.

    I suggested that Danny take a taxi back to Tyne Riverside Country Park and drive back to collect Marley and me from Heddon-on-the-Wall.

    It worked a treat.

    At Last, The Wall

    Having reunited with the car, we had one final stop to make: Heddon-on-the-Wall proper.

    The village occupies what was once the north-western frontier of the Roman Empire. More importantly for us, it is home to one of the most substantial surviving stretches of Hadrian’s Wall.

    In places, the masonry remains almost two metres thick.

    For much of the Hadrian’s Wall Path so far, there has been a notable absence of actual wall. We’ve walked through wonderful landscapes, followed Roman earthworks and explored fascinating history, but physical sections of Hadrian’s Wall have been surprisingly scarce.

    Now, finally, we’d found it.

    And Emperor Marley was absolutely delighted, as the photographs will testify.

    Standing beside those ancient stones felt like reaching a significant milestone. For seven legs we’d been following the story of the Wall. Here, at last, we could properly touch it, stand beside it and appreciate the sheer scale of what the Romans built nearly 2,000 years ago.

    Seventh Heaven

    Seventh heaven really was the perfect description of this leg.

    We crossed into Northumberland, conquered the toughest climb of the journey so far, enjoyed a leisurely pub lunch and, more importantly, finally found a substantial section of Hadrian’s Wall worthy of the name.

    Although we aren’t walking the route in the conventional way, with the trail often divided into six sections, reaching Heddon-on-the-Wall meant we had effectively completed the first of those sections, albeit across seven separate walks. The section from Wallsend to Heddon-on-the-Wall is around 14 miles, but because we have retraced our steps at the start and end of most legs, I estimate we have actually covered closer to 24.5 miles so far.

    There was also something symbolic about reaching this point. Northumberland had become home for us, and after months of planning, walking and early starts, it felt as though the adventure had properly begun. The Wall was no longer something we were following. We were now walking through its heartland.

    For Marley, this was the day he finally met his Wall, or at least the first substantial piece of it (on this journey at least).

    For us, it felt like the moment our Hadrian’s Wall journey truly came alive. After seven legs, countless early alarms, flat tyres and more than a few logistical challenges, we finally stood beside the monument that had inspired the adventure in the first place.

    The next leg, however, promises something rather different.

    The B6318, better known as the Military Road, awaits. And if its reputation is anything to go by, Leg 8 may demand every bit as much determination as Leg 7…

    prileygowing@gmail.com

  • Marley-upon-Tyne and Leaving the City Behind

    Leg 6: Scotswood to Tyne Riverside Country Park

    (Marley posing by the River Tyne at Tyne Riverside Country Park in Newburn, west of Newcastle)

    One Last Dawn Alarm

    Sunday 2 August 2026, 3.30AM. Still feeling the effects of yesterday’s dawn walk, we were up once again for our sixth leg of the Hadrian’s Wall Path. There was plenty of motivation this time, though. This would be our final urban stretch for some time before eventually reaching Carlisle in the latter stages of the journey.

    We parked at Tyne Riverside Country Park in Newburn on another dry dawn morning at 05:20AM. We were tackling this leg in reverse, walking from the country park back to the residential cul-de-sac where we had finished the previous stage and taking advantage of the large car park at the park itself. The car park is free 24 hours a day, and free parking has certainly been our friend since moving to the North East.

    Fellow Early Risers

    It was a peaceful morning as we joined the path and quickly reached the river. Not expecting to see anyone at that hour, we were surprised to pass a woman walking a large and incredibly reactive dog. They were clearly not comfortable with company, and we happily gave them the space they needed.

    In an odd way, it was reassuring. There was something strangely bonding about knowing that other people were also out walking dogs at such an ungodly hour in places where they might otherwise struggle. Marley wasn’t bothered by them in the slightest and, as fellow owners of a dog with his own complexities, we were more than happy to give them room.

    Sunrise on the Tyne

    We soon reached the Tyne and paused for photographs in the tranquillity of the soft sunrise. The path follows the river for a while here, again sharing sections with National Cycle Route 72. With his tail up and ears alert to the chorus of birdsong around us, Marley padded happily along.

    Not long afterwards, we reached Branzino, an old pub that is now an Italian restaurant. Ever the pub dog, Marley stopped outside, nose in the air, clearly trying to force entry. Unsurprisingly, it wasn’t open at that hour, but I did make a mental note to visit another time.

    After coaxing Marley into moving on again, we continued eastward with the river on our right. The path soon drifted away from the water and into woodland, weaving through the trees before eventually emerging beside a Lidl supermarket.

    Just a Lidl further

    We couldn’t help but laugh when we spotted the advertising slogan:

    “Just a Lidl further.”

    In some ways, the slogan felt rather appropriate. We had already walked several miles of the Hadrian’s Wall Path, but in terms of the full 84-mile route, we’d barely scratched the surface.

    In the background, it was impossible to miss the enormous cone-shaped structure rising above the surrounding buildings. Curious, I later looked it up and discovered it was the Lemington Glass Cone, a historic brick structure built in 1797 by the Northumberland Glass Company. Standing around 130 feet tall and constructed from an estimated 1.5 to 1.75 million bricks, it was built for industrial glass-making and is one of only four surviving glass cones in the UK. Although glass production ceased there in 1997, the cone remains a prominent local landmark and is now a Grade II listed building.

    Easier Than Expected

    We had been slightly anxious about this section beforehand. Looking at the map, we’d assumed we would be walking alongside a busy road near the river. In reality, the enclosed nature of the path meant we couldn’t hear or see any traffic at all.

    Even when the route eventually left the country park, we only spent a few metres walking through quiet suburbia before reaching the cul-de-sac where we had finished the previous leg.

    Easy.

    By this point, though, Marley was beginning to tire, which meant it was time for the buggy. Fortunately, the flat path made for easy pushing alongside the river. The day was warming up now. The pale pastel colours of sunrise had given way to bright blue skies as the sun climbed higher, and I found myself imagining how busy the area would be in a few hours’ time.

    Much like Leg 2 at St Peter’s Marina, this walk had surpassed our expectations.

    Chariots and Wagons

    At the finish, Marley transferred from his chariot (aka buggy) to his wagon (aka car) for the journey home while I took a look at the Battle of Newburn Ford 1640 Memorial which had taken place in this car park. It happened on 28 August 1640 during the Second Bishops’ War, marking a decisive Scottish victory that directly triggered the English Civil War.

    The End of the Urban Miles

    As we left, we felt a real sense of achievement. We had completed all of the eastern urban sections, successfully managed six dawn walks, and had now even tackled two consecutive mornings.

    And, being British, perhaps even more impressive was the fact that we had somehow avoided the rain. Aside from a brief spell of drizzle during Leg 1, the weather had been remarkably kind to us.

    Best of all, our next stage would finally take us into the countryside. There would be no alarm clock set for the small hours and no need to beat the crowds.

    For the first time since we started our journey, we were actually looking forward to a later start. The next leg would see us leaving Tyne & Wear and finally entering our home county of Northumberland…

    prileygowing@gmail.com

  • Gannin’ Along The Scotswood Road

    Leg 5: Scotswood to Denton Dene

    (Danny walking Marley and Marley’s buggy outside the KD stadium, home of Newcastle Blue Star FC)

    From Cul‑de‑Sac to Motorway

    Saturday 1 August 2026. There’s a particular kind of quiet that only exists at around 05:00 on a Saturday morning, and we found it on a non‑descript residential cul‑de‑sac somewhere near Denton, a district of Newcastle-upon-Tyne. We parked as discreetly as possible beside the trail marker, trying to close the car doors and unload Marley’s chariot (I mean buggy) without a sound, as if the entire street were asleep under glass. Marley, of course, shattered the illusion immediately — snorting, shaking his ears, and doing his full‑body stretch that sounds like someone dragging furniture across a wooden floor. Just kidding. He was as good as gold. By now, he was a seasoned dawn walker.

    Starting with a bang: crossing the A1

    (Danny and Marley before crossing over the A1 footbridge)

    It was another dry start, though not an especially warm one. Danny was wearing shorts while I set off in a woolly hat. Dawn in the North East isn’t always warm, even in August. Later, I swapped my Hadrian’s Wall woolly hat for the more seasonal cap.

    We began with drama: crossing the footbridge over the A1. It felt surreal. I’ve been in a car on that road more times than I can count, but crossing it on foot — at dawn, with a dog who is famously fearful of traffic — was something else entirely. The irony wasn’t lost on me. But at that hour on a Saturday, the A1 was manageable: a gentle hum rather than the roaring wall of noise it becomes at any reasonable time of day. We absolutely couldn’t have done it later.

    Once over the A1, the world softened. The hard edges of the road gave way to green space at Denton, and soon we were walking past the KD Stadium — home of Newcastle Blue Star, a football club I’ll admit I hadn’t heard of before this walk.

    They’re based right here in Scotswood and are known as one of the fastest‑growing football clubs in the North East, with multiple senior and junior teams. Founded in 1930, they famously won the FA Vase in 1978, were wound up in 2009, and were reborn in 2018. Today they play in Northern League Division One, the ninth tier of English football, calling the KD Stadium on Denton Road their home.

    Their slogan — “Gannin’ along the Scotswood Road” — is proudly emblazoned on the fences surrounding the ground.

    As an avid football fan, it was oddly charming to stumble across a stadium with such a long, winding history while walking Hadrian’s Wall at dawn. Marley didn’t care, of course — he was far more interested in a suspicious tuft of grass — but I liked the unexpectedness of it. And it’s those unexpected discoveries on the Hadrian’s Wall Path that keep you going when moments get tough.

    Denton Dene and the calm before the storm

    We continued through Denton Dene, a pleasant green space that no doubt provides recreation to many local residents, both human and dog. Marley’s tail was up as he sniffed and pootled along, proudly posing amongst grass and trees. I pushed the empty buggy behind us, ready for when he — and we — needed it.

    It would have been lovely if the walk had carried on like this the whole way, but we knew this would be a challenging leg. Not just because of our brief crossing of the A1, but because of Scotswood Road (more on that later).

    Yesterday, Today, Forever — Scotswood remembers

    The path emerged from the trees onto the A191 Denton Road: industry, complex roundabouts, and on one of the traffic islands, a striking sculpture. I left Danny and Marley safely on the pavement while I walked over for a closer look.

    “Yesterday, Today, Forever” — Fowberry Road, Scotswood. A sculpture of a pitman, pony, and two children stands on the small traffic island at the junction of Fowberry Road and Denton Road.

    A plaque explains it commemorates the 38 men and boys killed in the Montagu View Pit disaster on 30 March 1925, when an inrush of water from the abandoned Paradise Pit flooded the deep Brockwell Seam. Some bodies weren’t recovered until January 1926. The miners were buried at St John’s Cemetery, Elswick, where a more traditional memorial stands.

    The pit finally closed in 1959. This sculpture, created by Xceptional Designs and unveiled in 2012, involved local children and the community. It also features a frog, a tank, and a house — symbols chosen by the children. One said:

    “Scotswood is like a frog — it’s not very pretty on the outside but it’s beautiful on the inside.”

    The pitman, pony, and tank depict the past heritage, with the pitman leading the children toward the future. The girl is taking his photo with her mobile phone.

    Moving and sad. Like Dunston Staiths on the previous leg, the impact of mining in the northeast continues to be felt and shows itself on the Hadrian’s Wall Path. I suspect it won’t be the last reminder of the pit past we see.

    Into the trees — and out again

    After a moment of reflection, I crossed back to Danny and Marley. A few minutes more along the road and the path tucked back into an avenue of trees parallel to Scotswood Road. We were relieved to be away from the roadside but picked up the pace, wanting this leg to be over sooner rather than later.

    Before we did, the Hadrian’s Wall Path converged with the Blaydon Races Heritage Trail, where we paused to read the lyrics of verses two to four of George Ridley’s Blaydon Races. The famous Tyneside folk song recounts a chaotic day out on Whit Monday, 9 June 1862, as a group of passengers travelled by bus from Newcastle to Blaydon for the race meeting on Blaydon Island.

    We flew past Armstrong’s factory
    And up by the Robin Adair
    But gannin’ ower the Railway Bridge
    The bus wheel flew off there
    The lasses lost their crinolenes
    And veils that hide their faces
    I got two black eyes and a broken nose
    In gannin’ to Blaydon Races

    Now when we got the wheel back on
    Away we went again
    But them that had their noses broke
    They went back o’er hyem
    Some went to the dispensary
    And some to Doctor Gibbs’s
    And some to the infirmary
    To mend their broken ribs’s

    We flew across the Tyne Bridge
    And came to Blaydon Toon
    The barman he was calling then
    They called him Jackie Broon
    I saw him talking to some chaps
    And them he was persuadin’
    To gan and see Geordie Ridley’s show
    At the Mechanics’ Hall in Blaydon

    Soon enough, the path emerged onto the pavement at Scotswood Road. Like the A1, Scotswood is never completely still, even very early on a Saturday morning. There was something faintly surreal about walking it on foot at dawn. Danny drives along Scotswood regularly in the early hours on her way to Newcastle station, yet neither of us had ever imagined we would one day be walking it by choice as part of the Hadrian’s Wall Path. Much like crossing the A1 on foot earlier in our journey, seeing such a familiar route from ground level felt strangely disorientating.The path was flat and easy to navigate, if not exactly what you dream of when deciding to walk Hadrian’s Wall.

    We walked at speed, crossed a set of traffic lights, and pounded the pavements until we reached Lexus at Newcastle Business Park, where we’d ended the previous leg. Because we walk each section twice, this was the point where Marley went into the buggy — he was beginning to show signs of tiredness.

    A wise decision. No sooner had he settled in than a very early peloton appeared. Marley wasn’t keen, but safely zipped away in the buggy, he could let it go. You couldn’t help but admire their commitment.

    Gannin’ along the Scotswood Road — with a flat tyre

    Now it was time to push him back. We were gannin’ along the Scotswood Road alright — until the tyre started to feel flat. A substantial doggy buggy plus a 36kg dog up the hill toward the A1 footbridge quickly became an Olympic workout.
    A1 done, and the car in touching distance… or so we thought.

    A Slightly Chaotic Finish

    Towards the end, we had a stressful encounter with two loose, overenergetic dogs — including a golden retriever out for its morning run. They sprinted towards Marley’s chariot and continued to pursue us as we tried to move away. The owner eventually caught up, and we made a hasty exit.

    A few minutes later, we realised the stress had caused us to deviate from the path. We only noticed once we reached the bottom of another steep hill. It was a frustrating and demoralising end to the leg. We had to turn around and push Marley straight back up the hill, no mean feat with a flat tyre. The bum steer probably added about 15 minutes. We didn’t want the extra steps, but Marley didn’t mind being chauffeured for a bit longer.

    Finally, we reached the car. Marley was ready for a long snooze — but first, we had to meet the Wall.

    Benwell Temple & Benwell Crossing — Hadrian in the suburbs

    There were three sections of wall not technically on the Hadrian’s Wall Path, but only minutes from our end point. It would’ve been rude not to!

    1. Benwell Temple

    2. Benwell Crossing

    3. Denton Hall Turret

    What we loved was how these ruins sit quietly amongst ordinary housing estates. We took photos and particularly enjoyed a Hadrian bust perched on a resident’s fence. It wasn’t part of the official ruins, but it made us smile — someone embracing the theme, and no doubt many walkers stop to photograph this anonymous garden fence.

    (A sculpture of Hadrian sits proudly atop a resident’s fence)

    It felt important to see Hadrian, take stock, and remind ourselves why we’re doing this mad quest. And because we really must be mad — determined to finish the urban legs before summer commitments, moving house, and shortening daylight hours — we decided we’d do the next leg, our final dawn walk, not a week later, but the very next day.

    Same again, tomorrow.

    Let’s hope we would find the energy, especially Marley!

    (Marley sleeping in the car soon after the completion of leg 5)

    prileygowing@gmail.com

  • From Sunrise to Scotswood: Marley Finds His Wheels

    Leg 4: Quayside to Scotswood Road

    (Bridges at dawn, Newcastle Quayside. 25th July 2026)

    A Later Dawn and a Familiar Starting Point

    Saturday 25 July. 05:00AM. A slightly later start. We parked up at Merchant’s House — the same car park as last weekend’s walk. Whereas last time we’d turned left towards the Tyne Bridge, this week we’d be turning right, away from it.

    But the dawn skies we’d hoped for last week finally appeared — soft pinks and golds rising behind the Tyne — and we couldn’t resist heading back to the Tyne Bridge for some sunrise snaps. Marley didn’t seem to mind.

    Following the River West

    Photos taken, we set off. It was another easy walk as we followed the riverside path west. Unlike the eastward stretch, this section didn’t offer the same cultural landmarks or sights — but the easy, flat riverside path made for pleasant walking. We were happy enough letting the path lead us away from the heart of the Tyne, past the Quayside and towards the western district of Elswick.

    The Timber Giant Across the Water

    We stopped to look at Dunston Staiths across the river — its information board covered in graffiti, a reminder that we were still in urban environs. Dunston Staiths is the largest timber structure in Europe, built in 1893 from Baltic pitch pine and stretching an impressive 500 metres. Coal wagons from the Durham pits were once pushed along the four rails on top, ready for unloading onto ships. It was the last working staiths on the Tyne, closing in 1980 as the coal industry declined. In the early 20th century there were around 30 wooden jetties along the river; this is now the only one left.

    Even from the far side of the Tyne, it is clearly enormous — a gigantic reminder of the North East’s coal‑mining past.

    Dunston is also famous as Gazza’s birthplace and for the 1970s Tudor Crisps TV advert featuring the brutalist Derwent Tower — known locally as the Dunston Rocket. The classic ad showed a wily paperboy bribing a mate with a “canny bag” of Tudor Crisps to brave the massive climb and deliver papers up the high‑rise tower, cementing the catchphrase: “For Tudor, I’d climb a mountain!” The Dunston Rocket was demolished in 2012 bringing an end to one of Tyneside’s most divisive landmarks.

    Blue Skies and a Moment to Pause

    We pootled along, the acorn symbol on a lamppost confirming we were on the right path — not that it was needed, as we were simply following the river. I suspect the acorns will be more useful further along the trail.

    Soon after, we reached an inviting landscaped area of wooden decking with a viewpoint over the river and an attractive cluster of stones. It felt like a natural place for a water break and photos. The sky had shifted from pink and yellow hues to scattered blue and white.

    An information board explained Lord Armstrong’s role in transforming industrial engineering and the armaments industry, establishing W.G. Armstrong & Co. at Elswick in 1847. (W.G. stands for William George — the first two names shared by my brother, who has another two as well as a double‑barrelled surname.)

    Leaving the River Behind

    The Hadrian’s Wall path still ran alongside cycle route 72, though cyclists were scarce — much to our and Marley’s relief. We passed Liosi’s, a delightful Sicilian eatery popular with Wall walkers but, of course, not open at pre‑6AM on a Saturday. A theme is definitely emerging!

    Eventually the path left the riverside and turned inland, leading us to a Lexus dealership on the notorious Scotswood Road. We’d pick up the trail here next time.

    The Great Buggy Reveal

    Now we needed to get back to the car. As I’ve mentioned in previous blogs, our unconventional way of walking the Wall means we’re having to walk each mini‑leg twice. This has been doable so far, but Marley’s an older lad now and a bit arthritic. He’s still fit, but the days of 16‑mile walks are behind him.

    So — the solution I hinted at. A buggy. Yes, really.

    After researching and consulting dog‑buggy owners on the “Duggies in Buggies” Facebook group, and debating 3‑wheel vs 4‑wheel, we opted for the former. It arrived during the week between walks.

    We tested it briefly in our wild, uneven Northumberland garden. Marley wasn’t sure what to make of it, but with encouragement (and treats) he climbed in. Using it in the city would be a different prospect.

    Marley-on-Wheels

    After turning around at Lexus, we returned to the wooden decking for the big moment. Marley had slowed down considerably in the last five minutes — vindicating the purchase — and was ready to rest his paws. With a bit more encouragement and a treat or two, he climbed in without too much resistance.

    This meant that while we’d walked the outward section with me pushing an empty extra‑large dog buggy and Danny walking Marley on the lead, we now swapped: Danny would push the (much heavier) buggy for the return leg. I definitely got the better part of the deal.

    It was liberating going hands‑free, and slightly surreal pushing this chariot‑sized contraption, wondering whether people would realise there was a dog inside or assume it was a baby.

    Preserving Marley’s limbs aside, it proved a shrewd decision. Whereas we’d barely seen a soul on the first leg, early cyclists and keen joggers (some no doubt training for the upcoming Great North Run) were now out in force. Zipped away in the safety of the buggy, a section that would’ve been undoable — or at least very challenging — Marley’s reactivity became manageable, if not quite relaxing.

    The buggy wheels are small bike tyres, and it can even attach to the back of a bicycle — ironic given Marley’s hatred of bikes. Marley‑on‑the‑Wall was now Marley‑on‑Wheels.

    A Pub Dog Denied

    As we arrived back at the Merchant’s House car park, The Quayside pub was getting ready to open. As you’ll know if you’re reading this, Marley is a pub dog, and we keep a meticulous log of his hostelries (109 at the time of this walk and now up to 121). Unfortunately, as lovely as it would’ve been to enjoy a beverage or breakfast overlooking the Tyne, it was a Wetherspoons — assistance dogs only, even on the riverside patio.

    Finding Our Rhythm

    It was an enjoyable walk, even if it didn’t have the cultural pull of the previous two. But we’ve settled into our dawn‑walking rhythm now — the quiet start, the empty paths, the soft light over the Tyne — and Marley has well and truly found his wheels.

    And as it turned out, he’d need them. The next leg would be the real test.

    prileygowing@gmail.com

  • Bridges at Dawn — Marley, the Quayside, and a Surprise Modelling Debut

    Leg 3: St Peter’s Marina to Newcastle Quayside

    (Marley in front of the Tyne and Swing bridges)

    Dawn on the Tyne

    Saturday 18 July 2026. A third consecutive Saturday early‑hours alarm. Somehow this one felt a little easier — perhaps because we’d already got a couple of dawn walks under our belt, or perhaps because this was the leg we’d really been waiting for.

    The bridges.

    We parked at Merchants House in a prime spot, right on the riverside path beneath the imposing High Level Bridge — a Victorian road and railway bridge built from 5,050 tonnes of iron, and one I’ve travelled over by train many times.

    Our reward for arriving so early: free parking until 8:00AM. At 04:50AM we headed straight to the waymarker for our customary start‑of‑walk photo.

    As with the previous leg, we reversed the route for practical reasons — parking, timing — and because we were keen to see the bridges as early as possible.

    We had hoped for a beautiful sunrise to frame the Tyne, but it wasn’t to be. Another dull, grey morning. Still, it was mild and dry, and I was happily wearing my Hadrian’s Wall cap from Chesters Roman Fort — Marley’s beloved Sunday spot — which I only allow myself to wear on Wall days. The woolly version is waiting in my hat box for when the seasons turn.

    The Swing Bridge and the Tyne Bridge

    Turning left from Merchants House, we quickly passed the Swing Bridge. A few metres later we stopped for photos of the iconic Tyne Bridge. It brought back fond memories of running over it during the Great North Run in 2014. A little further on, colourful route markings were already in place for this year’s race. September’s event would be the 45th, with a record 63,000 participants.

    Gateshead Millennium Bridge

    Next up was the Gateshead Millennium Bridge — built in… you guessed it, 2000, though it actually opened on 17 September 2001. A pedestrian and cyclist tilt bridge linking Gateshead’s arts quarter with Newcastle’s Quayside, it was the first tilting bridge ever constructed — an impressive engineering feat.
    This was the first bridge we could actually walk onto without much climbing, so we briefly diverted off the path. We took in the views, snapped plenty of photos, and enjoyed having the bridge almost entirely to ourselves. A lone cyclist passed through; otherwise it was just us, the birds, and the quiet hum of the river.

    Landmarks Along the Tyne

    After our detour, we rejoined the path and padded along towards St Peter’s Marina — a stretch we’d enjoyed so much last week. We passed several landmarks: the old fish market, the striking Blacksmith’s Needle, and, to our delight, realised we were walking the same route as the Tales on the Tyne trail. This Wild in Art event featured 96 super‑sized Peter Rabbit sculptures celebrating both 40 years of St Oswald’s Hospice and the 160th anniversary of Beatrix Potter’s birth.

    The trail ran over summer 2026, from 15 July to 14 September, so we’d timed it perfectly; the Hadrian’s Wall path happened to intersect with it just as we were passing through. It added a lovely sense of serendipity to the morning. More about the trail can be found here: https://talesonthetyne.co.uk/

    When Marley Met Peter Rabbit

    Marley posed up a storm with the Peter Rabbit statues. Little did we know that one of the photos from this walk would later be chosen by the Tales on the Tyne organisers for their social media round‑up, selected from thousands of participant entries. A modelling career for Marley? We’re biased, of course, but he does have the looks — if not always the temperament.

    We continued past the Cycle Hub — not yet open, naturally — and followed the path onwards. The scenery grew more industrial as we moved further from the city centre.

    St Peter’s Marina and the Return Journey

    Upon reaching the edge of St Peter’s Marina, we turned around and headed back along the Tyne. It was still very quiet, though we began to see the occasional person starting their morning. At 06:25AM we found some deck chairs, part of the city’s summer leisure offering, and stopped for a quick rest and water break. Marley stretched out comfortably and was, once again, extremely photogenic.

    Up again, and onwards — Marley‑upon‑Tyne. It was approaching 06:30AM, and we were all feeling a little peckish. As adopted Geordies, we couldn’t resist Greggs, conveniently situated right on the path and the only place open. A brew and a sausage roll at the riverside tables, while Marley chomped through one of his own dog delicacies, felt like the perfect way to end the morning’s walk.

    With full tummies and slightly tired paws, we climbed back into the car feeling satisfied. This leg had lived up to its promise, but it also made one thing clear: Marley — a little older, a little arthritic these days — would need a bit of extra support on the longer stretches.

    Marley‑on‑the‑Wall, Marley‑on‑wheels… well, we were walking over Cycle Route 72 after all — and the solution was closer than we realised.

    prileygowing@gmail.com

  • Walking Hadrian’s Wall at First Light

    Leg 2: Walker Riverside to St Peter’s Marina (and back!)

    (St Peter’s Marina/Basin at dawn)

    An Even Earlier Start

    02:30. Saturday 11 July 2026. The alarm goes off — ludicrously early after a busy week at work — and we’re up again for leg two of our Hadrian’s Wall adventure.

    We’d debated whether to continue after leg one, but ultimately decided to press on. What we did agree on was that starting at 05:40 hadn’t been early enough. Cycle Route 72 had been too lively for our liking with keen cyclists at the latter part, and Marley’s nerves had suffered. So this time, we aimed for earlier still.

    Reversing the Route

    We’d finished the previous leg at Walker Riverside. Because there’s nowhere to park in the middle of an industrial riverside path, we had to do this short stretch — Walker Riverside to St Peter’s Marina — in reverse.

    We parked on a nondescript street lined with industrial buildings and walked a short distance to rejoin the path. At 04:45 we reached the waymarker, posed for our customary photo, and Marley — much happier this time — set off with purpose.

    First Impressions of St Peter’s Marina

    Within minutes we reached St Peter’s Marina. After the underwhelming start at Wallsend, this was a pleasant surprise: a modern pier, charming boats, and trendy marina‑side flats with nautical styling and names. The weather was grey but mild and dry, so there were no complaints.

    We followed the path with the river on our right (it would flip on the return journey). Marley’s tail was soon up. He loved the strong marine smells, sniffing around the old boats and taking more than an interest in the flapping birds! We trotted along until we reached the bench at Walker Riverside where we’d ended the previous leg. After a quick rest, we turned around and retraced our steps back to the car.

    Unexpected History Along the Tyne

    Despite being such a short stretch, it offered unexpected points of historical interest:

    A foundation stone laid by Margaret Thatcher on 10 March 1989

    Colourful tiles at Chandler’s Quay

    A commemorative maritime sculpture marking the opening of St Peter’s Marina Village by Princess Diana in 1991

    Curious, I did some research afterwards. St Peter’s Marina (or St Peter’s Basin) is a 1990s inner‑city marina just outside Newcastle city centre. It was redeveloped from the former Hawthorn Leslie engineering works into a modern residential and leisure hub.

    Princess Diana officially opened it on 3 April 1991. Local press reports describe her doing a walkabout, greeting workmen, chatting with children and Girl Guides, and famously telling her entourage, “In a moment. I’m talking to the children,” when they tried to hurry her along.

    Canny Brews, But Not at Dawn

    There was also a fantastic‑looking kiosk serving coffee and avocado bagels with the charming Geordie slogan “Canny Brews. Canny views” to draw customers. Sadly, it wouldn’t open for another five hours. A shame, as I do love avocado.

    Even in the peace of dawn, with no sight or sound of anyone, you could imagine how lively it might become later: early dog walkers, cyclists, people out for a leisurely stroll, brunch‑seekers, or someone heading off for a powerboat lesson. A place we’d happily revisit on our own, with Marley safely indoors.

    A Short Stretch, A Happy Dog

    It was a very short and easy stretch (1.5 miles, 3 miles for the round trip) — likely the shortest we’ll do on our quest to walk the Wall, even with the return to the car. But despite its brevity, Marley found it wonderfully stimulating and was the picture of peace as we headed home.

    A Glimpse of the Newcastle Bridges

    A couple of minutes after we were back in the car, I caught a glimpse of the Newcastle bridges. I snapped a photo from the passenger window and thought how lovely it would be to be walking alongside them. That’s for next time…

    prileygowing@gmail.com

  • An Early Start, a Big Plan, and a Very Big Dog

    Leg 1: Segedunum Roman Fort (Wallsend) to Walker Riverside (and back!)

    (Marley pictured at the start of the Hadrian’s Wall Path, Segedunum Wallsend)

    A Brutal Alarm and a Very Early Start

    Saturday 4 July 2026, 03:30. The alarm goes off. It’s painful — brutally so — especially on a Saturday. But after a cuppa and a very early breakfast, the kit is packed, the car is loaded, and we’re about to begin one of the UK’s best‑known national trails: the Hadrian’s Wall Path. Eighty‑four miles (135km) stretching from Wallsend in Newcastle‑upon‑Tyne to Bowness‑on‑Solway in Cumbria.

    Plenty of people have walked it. Plenty of dogs have walked it too. But I’m not convinced anyone has done it quite like this.

    Why We’re Doing This

    If you’re reading this, you probably already know that Danny, myself, and our rather large rescue dog Marley relocated from the south east to Northumberland last year. During that time — and on previous holidays — we’d walked a few small sections of the Wall with Marley. We’d loved it. He’d loved it. He’s since become a frequent visitor to Chesters Roman Fort, trotting around with his nose in the air as if it were Marley’s Empire, not Hadrian’s.

    The Big Idea and The Dawn‑Walk Solution

    Following these happy encounters, Danny said she’d like to walk the entire length of Hadrian’s Wall with Marley. A lovely idea… except for one problem: the urban sections. Marley’s reactivity meant that navigating busy streets, traffic, and unpredictable encounters would be a recipe for disaster.

    My reply was that if we were going to do the urban sections, we’d have to do them at dawn — and being summer, the time was nigh. And that’s how the dawn‑walk idea was born…

    The Plan (and the Spreadsheet). 47 legs… Yes, Really

    Transport was the next challenge. We devised an Excel spreadsheet with 47 legs (or rather, Danny did — she’s an accountant after all), including start and end points, distances, car parking, facilities, and more. Forty‑seven legs which we hoped to reduce and combine as we went. For comparison, the typical itinerary suggests walking the Wall in six days, split into six neat sections. The standard version includes accommodation stops, luggage transfers, and transport.

    The Car Conundrum

    Our version? Let’s just say the car conundrum — where to park and how to get back to the car after each leg with a large rescue dog and only one driver — meant that not only were we walking the Wall… we were walking it twice.

    East to West: Our Chosen Direction Why We Didn’t Follow the Wind

    We opted to walk the route East to West — the direction the Wall was originally built. Many walkers choose West to East because of the prevailing wind, but for us, East to West was essential. It allowed us to tackle the most urban and challenging sections first, with the help of early sunrises and the quiet calm of pre‑dawn streets, before reaching the rural stretches.

    A More Inspiring Finish (If We Finish)

    There was another reason too: finishing at Wallsend didn’t feel very inspiring, and the idea of the path becoming more rural as we went along was far more appealing to us — and to Marley. And having now walked through Wallsend, I’m very glad we made that decision!

    But enough preamble. Time to walk.

    Arriving at ASDA (in Classic North East Drizzle)

    We parked up at the ASDA car park in Wallsend at 05:40, in the drizzle that felt entirely fitting for the dreary setting, and took a quick detour to Segedunum Roman Fort & Museum.

    A Glimpse of Sentius Tectonicus

    We sneaked a peek at the large and impressive Sentius Tectonicus — an eight‑and‑a‑half‑foot sculpture of a Roman centurion — through the railings. We planned to return another day during opening hours.

    The Official Start Line (and a Reluctant Dog)

    Then we made our way to the first waymarker, the official start, and took photos. Marley wasn’t keen at all (he’d felt the early start too), and it took a lot of treats to get him to pose.

    A Less‑Than‑Epic Beginning

    It’s a distinctly average beginning for such a famous trail, with its urban and industrial surroundings, broken glass, graffiti, and litter. Not exactly sweeping Roman vistas.

    Nevertheless, we followed the very well‑signposted path, treading mostly tarmac through the less‑than‑glamorous setting, and made our way to Walker Riverside Park.

    Walker Riverside Park: A Quick Break

    Walker Riverside is an industrial riverside park along the River Tyne, created in the 1980s on reclaimed industrial land formerly occupied by lead and tar works. Today it’s a popular recreational spot, but we were the only ones there and it was wonderfully tranquil. It’s only 2.3 miles from the start of the Wall and took us a little under an hour.

    We stopped there for a quick rest and water break and, naturally, a few photos. Then we turned around and walked back the same way.

    Cycle Route 72: Marley’s Nemesis

    Even though it was early on a Saturday morning, we still encountered a fair few keen cyclists on the route — Hadrian’s Wall Path runs alongside Cycle Route 72 for much of it, a well‑established cycle path — and cyclists, and the act of cycling itself, are unfortunately among Marley’s greatest fears. It was stressful and uncomfortable at times. There were a few instances of bear‑hugging Marley, pulling him out of “harm’s” (through his lens) way, covering his eyes, and presenting lots of treats.

    When Marley was anxious and a bit tired on the way back (and stubbornly refusing to move!), the appearance of a rottweiler — normally something we’d be hot‑footing away from — became a surprisingly helpful motivation to get him walking again. Soon he was padding enthusiastically behind the dog (even larger than him) along the path that so many before him have trodden.

    Back to ASDA: Job Done

    Shortly before 8AM, as the early birds were heading out for their morning exercise, weekly shops, work, and kids’ club drop‑offs, we arrived safely back at the ASDA car park.

    Relieved. Energised. (In Marley’s case: exhausted.) Job done.

    We did it.

    We actually did it.

    And Then… We Did It Again

    Despite our satisfaction and relief when we got back to the car, it was a tough leg, and we debated whether it was simply too difficult — too early, too urban, too much for Marley.

    But the Wall Has a Pull…

    And one week later, the alarm was sounding in the early hours again. Because once you start a journey like this, it draws you in and you plough on for some foolish reason.

    Marley, Ready for Round Two

    And Marley, in his own inimitable, determined way, was ready for more.

    And here are some photos of Danny and I revisiting Segedunum Roman Fort & Museum a fortnight later…during opening hours! We will be bringing Marley back at a later date.

    prileygowing@gmail.com