Leg 3: St Peter’s Marina to Newcastle Quayside
(Marley in front of the Tyne and Swing bridges)
Dawn on the Tyne
Saturday 18 July 2026. A third consecutive Saturday early‑hours alarm. Somehow this one felt a little easier — perhaps because we’d already got a couple of dawn walks under our belt, or perhaps because this was the leg we’d really been waiting for.
The bridges.
We parked at Merchants House in a prime spot, right on the riverside path beneath the imposing High Level Bridge — a Victorian road and railway bridge built from 5,050 tonnes of iron, and one I’ve travelled over by train many times.
Our reward for arriving so early: free parking until 8:00AM. At 04:50AM we headed straight to the waymarker for our customary start‑of‑walk photo.
As with the previous leg, we reversed the route for practical reasons — parking, timing — and because we were keen to see the bridges as early as possible.
We had hoped for a beautiful sunrise to frame the Tyne, but it wasn’t to be. Another dull, grey morning. Still, it was mild and dry, and I was happily wearing my Hadrian’s Wall cap from Chesters Roman Fort — Marley’s beloved Sunday spot — which I only allow myself to wear on Wall days. The woolly version is waiting in my hat box for when the seasons turn.
The Swing Bridge and the Tyne Bridge
Turning left from Merchants House, we quickly passed the Swing Bridge. A few metres later we stopped for photos of the iconic Tyne Bridge. It brought back fond memories of running over it during the Great North Run in 2014. A little further on, colourful route markings were already in place for this year’s race. September’s event would be the 45th, with a record 63,000 participants.
Gateshead Millennium Bridge
Next up was the Gateshead Millennium Bridge — built in… you guessed it, 2000, though it actually opened on 17 September 2001. A pedestrian and cyclist tilt bridge linking Gateshead’s arts quarter with Newcastle’s Quayside, it was the first tilting bridge ever constructed — an impressive engineering feat.
This was the first bridge we could actually walk onto without much climbing, so we briefly diverted off the path. We took in the views, snapped plenty of photos, and enjoyed having the bridge almost entirely to ourselves. A lone cyclist passed through; otherwise it was just us, the birds, and the quiet hum of the river.
Landmarks Along the Tyne
After our detour, we rejoined the path and padded along towards St Peter’s Marina — a stretch we’d enjoyed so much last week. We passed several landmarks: the old fish market, the striking Blacksmith’s Needle, and, to our delight, realised we were walking the same route as the Tales on the Tyne trail. This Wild in Art event featured 96 super‑sized Peter Rabbit sculptures celebrating both 40 years of St Oswald’s Hospice and the 160th anniversary of Beatrix Potter’s birth.
The trail ran over summer 2026, from 15 July to 14 September, so we’d timed it perfectly; the Hadrian’s Wall path happened to intersect with it just as we were passing through. It added a lovely sense of serendipity to the morning. More about the trail can be found here: https://talesonthetyne.co.uk/
When Marley Met Peter Rabbit
Marley posed up a storm with the Peter Rabbit statues. Little did we know that one of the photos from this walk would later be chosen by the Tales on the Tyne organisers for their social media round‑up, selected from thousands of participant entries. A modelling career for Marley? We’re biased, of course, but he does have the looks — if not always the temperament.
We continued past the Cycle Hub — not yet open, naturally — and followed the path onwards. The scenery grew more industrial as we moved further from the city centre.
St Peter’s Marina and the Return Journey
Upon reaching the edge of St Peter’s Marina, we turned around and headed back along the Tyne. It was still very quiet, though we began to see the occasional person starting their morning. At 06:25AM we found some deck chairs, part of the city’s summer leisure offering, and stopped for a quick rest and water break. Marley stretched out comfortably and was, once again, extremely photogenic.
Up again, and onwards — Marley‑upon‑Tyne. It was approaching 06:30AM, and we were all feeling a little peckish. As adopted Geordies, we couldn’t resist Greggs, conveniently situated right on the path and the only place open. A brew and a sausage roll at the riverside tables, while Marley chomped through one of his own dog delicacies, felt like the perfect way to end the morning’s walk.
With full tummies and slightly tired paws, we climbed back into the car feeling satisfied. This leg had lived up to its promise, but it also made one thing clear: Marley — a little older, a little arthritic these days — would need a bit of extra support on the longer stretches.
Marley‑on‑the‑Wall, Marley‑on‑wheels… well, we were walking over Cycle Route 72 after all — and the solution was closer than we realised.
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